Let’s talk about getting ready for your painter to arrive!
Clients always ask “What can we do to help get ready?” – here are some answers (in no particular order).
- Drop light fixtures if ceilings are being done. Never use paper around light fixtures as they are a fire hazard.
- Remove faceplates, put each room’s into a zip-lock baggie and label them. Great time to wash them and the switches, after the sanding and painting of course!
- Remove all breakables and pictures. If you would like a hook to stay where it is leave it and remove nails and hooks from all holes you would like filled. We do this as a standard.
- Move all items into rows in the room; if ceilings are being done it is important to leave room to access light fixtures and all wall/ceiling edges. If so inclined, you may cover items in plastic.
- Taping has its place but seldom is it needed especially for straight lines! We can talk about this more later. I use it in prep to label colours!
Gimmick tools don’t work – a good brush does.
Just so you know the process is ceilings and casings first, then crown if you have any, to walls and afterwards sills and baseboards.
If inclined to help fill holes see my previous tip regarding wall reparation.
If your kitchen is being painted, we recommend you have the slide kit for your fridge; we do carry sliders for moving heavier furniture, however we cannot always get under the back of some fridges. Just a thought as no one wants a scratched floor!
We always need a shop area and will discuss this and a place to wash brushes/sleeves as we proceed. Sometimes outside is best!
Daily communication is key to discuss job progress and set up for the next day. It is much easier to leave a job set up as much as possible as this saves time which means it saves you money!
Remember, always ask even if you think if is a dumb question; it is better than not asking and wondering! Especially if it is about a blemish that may be repairable.
Preparation is always 75% of the job.
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As we kick into spring season, many homeowners are spending time working outside. It’s a good chance to see how the exterior of your home fared over the winter months.
Recently we were pressure washing the exterior of a home and caught that there was no caulking around some of the exterior and interior beams where they met the siding.
It’s important before pressure washing that you check your home for areas of potential leakage.
We take great care to ensure water is not put into the home or behind the siding.
A good way to avoid this is to do any caulking prior to pressure washing. Also, try not to aim directly at the house but rather use a wand or a ladder to wash up or down, not straight at the house.
Old windows and doors often leak so we request someone be home or put towels down and then check for leakage and clean it up if there is any. A great way to ruin a floor is for water to sit on it for hours until the client comes home. Thankfully, we have always taken the needed precautions to avoid this!
Another important tip is the machine you use for pressure washing. Electric power washers generally do not have enough pressure.
The higher the psi the stronger the water stream is that comes out of the machine. You can add TSP or 30 second cleaner for stubborn areas, and use a wand with a scrub brush attachment to help remove moss and mildew.
There are different tips that can be used and these can greatly improve the cleaning time.
There are some paints that do not let mildew and algae grow on them, ever! They last up to 15-20 years and we are happy to discuss these options with you.
Sidewalks and driveways can be clear-coated to reduce yearly cleaning. Keep your eye out for future Tuesday tips, we’ll be going over decks soon!
Have a great week!
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Today I wanted to share something we have been doing a lot of; painting cabinets! Kitchen cabinets, vanities, mud rooms, dressers, etc.
Again it is all about preparation!
Kitchen cabinets especially take a lot of abuse and I have seen a fair share of failure.
We prefer to paint/stain cabinets for resale or with a 5-7 year renovation in mind. The reason for this is that professionally painted cabinets will last longer and be more durable as you receive a lacquer finish, which we just cannot do in a home. It’s just not possible; a shop is required to do this.
We are in the middle of painting some wooden cabinets which are 40 years old! They are/were dark stained wood with a clear-coat lacquer finish.
Removing the hardware (new hardware will be installed and we were lucky to find replacements at Lee Valley), we cleaned the cabinets with lacquer thinner and removed years of grease and dirt. They were then sanded down and dusted.
We applied to the bases (or styles) cover stain, then let that cure before applying General Paint’s Monamel Hybrid paint. The doors were completed by hand as it was easier. We are using the garage and some 5 gallon buckets to place the door on for curing, doing one side at a time. It’s a slow process but the best one for this project.
We will apply 2-3 finish coats before putting the kitchen back together.
We will post some pictures of some recent cabinets that are completed!
It greatly brightens the room and since the cabinets were so old, we sprayed the inside of the styles/bases as well.
We have a very happy client and the end results are beautiful!
Next week – popcorn ceilings painted for the first time in 40 years.
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